NEW YORK CITY, N.Y. — A beloved piece of Little Italy history is getting a fresh start in Chelsea Market, as Alleva, America’s oldest cheese shop, prepares to reopen after more than three years away.
The famed Italian shop dates back to 1892 and spent 130 years on the corner of Mulberry and Grand Streets before closing its doors in March 2023. Now, owner Karen King is bringing the longtime New York institution back — this time to the Meatpacking District.
For loyal customers who spent years stopping by for lasagna, sausage and peppers, cannoli and other Italian favorites, the reopening represents much more than a new storefront.
King said people were already reacting emotionally when they saw signs going up at the new location.
“People came yesterday when I was putting this sign up and they were from the neighborhood and they were screaming and saying how much they missed Alleva. I told them, ‘We’re opening Sunday,’” King recalled.
One longtime customer even told King he remembered visiting the original store as a five-year-old.
Alleva’s Historic Little Italy Chapter Comes to an End
Alleva’s original Little Italy location became a New York institution over more than a century. King purchased the business in 2014 with her late husband, John “Cha Cha” Ciarcia, from Robert Alleva, whose family was not interested in continuing the fifth-generation business.
Ciarcia, a “Sopranos” actor and unofficial mayor of Little Italy, died just a year after the purchase, leaving King and her nephew Sean Wilson to continue running the store.
The business eventually faced financial pressure during the COVID-19 pandemic. King fell behind on rent, and Alleva closed in March 2023 after reaching an agreement with its landlord that allowed her to break the lease without paying the back rent.
Then, in a remarkable twist, the building that once housed Alleva partially collapsed in January 2024 because of an illegal renovation. The structure was eventually demolished.
King couldn’t help but see the timing as a sign that moving forward was the right decision.
“It all came down and now we’re building here,” she said. “Isn’t that unbelievable?”
Chelsea Market Gives Alleva a Fresh Start
Although leaving Little Italy was emotional, King believes the move to Chelsea Market could give Alleva a much larger audience.
The food hall attracts more than 6 million visitors a year, bringing together cuisines and cultures from around the world.
“This is like the feast every day here in Chelsea Market,” King said.
She contrasted the new location with Little Italy, saying the international environment gives Alleva an opportunity to introduce its food and history to people from many different backgrounds.
“I feel like I’ve been raised up coming here. I feel like my brand means something now,” King said.
The shop will also shift away from its traditional grocery-store model and place a greater emphasis on prepared food and ready-to-eat Italian specialties.
New Menu Honors Alleva’s Italian Roots
Alleva’s new menu includes 13 signature sandwiches, including one named after King’s late husband.
The “Cha Cha” features mortadella, provolone, crushed pistachios and Dijon mustard, combining some of the couple’s favorite flavors.
Another sandwich, the “Siciliana,” comes with caponata, stracciatella and arugula, while the “Paesano” includes Milano salami and Prosciutto di Parma.
The shop’s new chef, Carlo Palandri, comes from Livorno, Tuscany, and his regional roots inspired another menu item, “Il Toscano,” featuring housemade porchetta, roasted garlic cream and sharp provolone.
Customers can also expect Italian classics including ravioli alla vodka, rigatoni bolognese and gnocchi marinara, followed by desserts such as cannoli and tiramisu.
A New Chapter for a New York Institution
King’s decision to reopen in Chelsea Market came after she considered another opportunity in New Jersey that could potentially have grown Alleva into a 30-store operation. She ultimately walked away after deciding she did not like the proposed contract.
Now, she is focused on rebuilding the brand in New York.
The original Alleva signs, more than a century old, have made their way to the new location, although the iconic 15-foot street sign remains in storage. King also kept the shop’s original phone number.
After 130 years in Little Italy, Alleva is entering a new chapter — one that keeps its historic identity while expanding its menu and audience.
For King, the reopening is also deeply personal. She says she continues to talk with her late husband about the business and believes the unexpected events surrounding the old building reinforced her decision to move forward.
Would you visit Alleva at its new Chelsea Market location? Share your thoughts and your favorite Italian food in the comments.